Ittoqqortoormiit, close to Scoresby Sound, the world's biggest fjord on the frozen east coast of Greenland . While only professionals track polar bears, everyone hunts seals, narwhals and Arctic musk ox. But for the last two decades climate change and hunting quotas have been threatening the livelihood on which Inuit families have long survived.

Hjelmer Hammeken, a legend in Greenland, is the greatest polar bear hunter, 319 over the last half century. He made his reputation in the 1980s. He would go out alone for several weeks at a time, crossing the glaciers of the fjord with his dogs with little more than a tent to bring back up to three polar bears.It was the golden age for the hunters, when polar bear skins could be sold abroad. That ended in 2005 when quotas were put in place to slow the fall in polar bear numbers.

Climate change has turned the lives of the Inuit upside down since the beginning of the century -- with the Arctic warming four times faster than the global average.

"Before we could hunt all year," said Hammeken, 66. "In winter the ice was harder... and the fjord never melted, but now the ice is retreating and the Sound is open and navigable between mid-July and mid-September". Stuck on land and starving now in the summers, they are coming closer and closer to the village looking for food.

Martin Madsen, 28, never been to school, is one of Ittoqqortoormiit's 10 professional hunters. Only Inuits who owns dogs sled and live completely from the hunt are allowed to hunt polar bears.  Skin can only be sold in Greenland after a European Union embargo in 2008.

"You hear everywhere now that we shouldn't eat meat and kill animals... but that is hard for us" in a place where nothing grows.